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Glossary

telar electrónico
Electrical variety of loom developed originally in Europe and introduced into the Andes in the 20th century to make industrial cloth via digital instructions. The tension of the warp and weft threads is fixed and maintained by the solid metallic frame of the loom.
telar grande
Loom of considerable dimensions, proportional to the cloth that needs to be made.
telar horizontal
Traditional variety of Andean loom in which the tension of the warp and weft threads is fixed and maintained by the set of stakes, ropes and fixed poles of the loom frame which place the loom parallel to the ground. The loom consists of an array of main stakes poles which fasten the warp and another set of mobile poles to alternately raise each of the heddles and introduce the weft into the intermediate space (the opening).
telar mecánico
Mechanical variant of the loom developed originally in Europe and introduced into the Andes in the 19th century to elaborate industrial fabrics. The tension of the warp and weft threads is maintained by the solid metal frame of the loom.
telar mediano
Medium sized loom proportional to the cloth that is needed to be made.
telar pequeño
Reduced size loom, proportional to the size of cloth required to be woven.
telar vertical
Variety of loom in which the tension of the warp and weft threads is fixed and maintained by the main poles attached to structures that keep the loom perpendicular to the ground, and in some cases, additional weights on the ends of the warp threads. In the Andes this loom variant is generally used to produce tapestry work.
teñido
Process by which colour is applied, with the aim of changing the original colour of the material to one different from the material's natural range of colours. The colour can be applied in various ways: i) to the raw animal fibre; ii) to the thread by putting it into an aqueous solution of dyes and mordants; iii) to the threads by direct application of a pigment with cloth or different sized brushes.
tesado
Process by which the twisted thread, especially alpaca thread, is tautened and stretched, as raw material for textile production, by tightening it manually and wrapping it round a solid object or with an instrument for this purpose.
tesador
Instrument that tautens the threads during the warp process of those threads on the loom. It is especially used with alpaca fibre to avoid the formation of clumps or snags if it were spun without keeping it tense.
tesador de entre-nudillo
Type of tautener made from knuckle bones used to tauten the thread before passing to the warp process.
tesador de nudillo
Type of tautener made from knuckle bones used to tauten the thread before passing to the warp process.
tesador de piedra
Type of tautened made out of stone used to tauten the thread before passing to the warp process.
textil como capital cultural
The full set of forms of participation in and access to the objects and meanings of textile production, in addition to the settings of action and textile valuation.
textil como capital económico
The set of values ascribed to textiles, cultural objects connected to textiles and the degree of recognition of textiles as heritage.
textil como capital social
The array of knowledge(s) and social agreements about textiles, in addition to the forms of textile production.
textil disputado
Textile object or objects in dispute between different entities such as countries, regions, groups, or between groups and institutions, in relation to their heritage value or their part in a market of illegal trafficking.
textil para documentar producción
Use of textiles, especially textile composition and iconography to document farming and pastoral production, by the attention paid to certain areas (pampas, figures), the use of stripes of different widths and specific figures, as well as the use of different colours and textures in the case of khipus.
textil territorial
Conception of textiles as mapped territory, that is a map of the territory where it was produced, its natural resources and its cycles of production.
textil y agricultura
Textile of specific characteristics, e.g. the use of natural colours, figures of fodder or pasturing grounds, places of cultivation and agricultural implements, used in agricultural contexts during the annual cycle.
textil y crear parientes (políticos)
Circulation of textiles as gifts between political relatives, e.g. in wedding celebrations, in recognition of incorporation into a common family group.
textil y espiritualidad
Use of textiles with specific characteristics in their colours and motifs, that are used in spiritual contexts, either religious or family rites of passage.
textil y hacer personas
Idea associated with the origins of textiles, where women, as they are weaving are creating within the cloth relatives of their own group out of the parts of their enemies taken in war.
textil y magia
Use of textiles with specific characteristics in their colours and motifs, e.g. the use of the colour black and lloque or left hand threads (spun to the left) used in rituals, especially to check the production or activity of an enemy, and the cultural ideas about such uses.
textil y pastoreo
Use of textiles with specific characteristics in their colours and motifs, e.g. natural colours and figures of animals, fodder, grazing places and herding implements, that are used in herding and pasturing contexts, especially in the rituals connected to animals.
textil y producción
Connections between textiles and the sphere of production, especially traditional farming and pasturing production in Andean societies, including productive foci in different ecological zones from the coast to the highlands. They include production rituals in which textiles are used and textile iconography conncted with productive aspects.
textil y religión
Use of textiles with specific characteristics in their colours and motifs, e.g. of deities, used in religious contexts.
textil y reproducción
Link between textiles and the sphere of production, especially in the meaning of using them to promote a new generation of young, or wawas, both human and animal and vegetable.
textil y tecnología
Generic denomination to refer to those technological aspects of textile production. It refers, on the one hand, to developments in the loom and its equipment and tools used to elaborate textiles, and on the other, to the set of social relations generated around the interactions with the material world and products.
textil, RRNN y ecología
The close relation between textiles and their territoriality, in the sense of regional materials used as natural resources and raw material in their elaboration, and the iconographic expression of the elements of the ecology of that territory in their designs and colours.